At Watches & Wonders 2024, Tudor showcases its masterful blend of tradition and innovation with a lineup that pays homage to its rich heritage while embracing contemporary aesthetics — from the bold statement of the Black Bay 58 in 18 ct yellow gold, offering a luxurious twist on a beloved classic, to the introduction of the “Tudor Blue” dials in the feminine Clair de Rose collection. The brand’s commitment to excellence is further exemplified by the monochrome evolution of the Black Bay and the sophistication of the Master Chronometer-certified Black Bay 58 GMT, each piece reflecting Tudor’s dedication to quality, design and technical prowess.
Black Bay 58 GMT
Kicking things off, Tudor has introduced the Black Bay 58 GMT, a new addition to the celebrated Black Bay line, which stands out with its Master Chronometer certification and embodies the golden age of air travel with its elegant design. This new model features a 39mm diameter case that evokes the spirit of the first Tudor divers’ watch in 1958, which was known for its waterproof capabilities and hallmarked “Big Crown.” It’s equipped with a new GMT Manufacture caliber, ensuring a seamless experience across time zones with a blend of burgundy, black and gilt hues on the bidirectional bezel, reminiscent of the glamorous jet-setting era. Its aesthetics are further enhanced by the “Snowflake” hands with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova and the choice between a stainless steel rivet-style bracelet or a rubber strap, both featuring the Tudor “T-fit” rapid adjustment clasp.
In terms of technical prowess, the Black Bay 58 GMT boasts the GMT Manufacture Calibre MT5450-U, which exceeds the stringent METAS Master Chronometer certification standards. This certification attests to the watch’s exceptional precision, resistance to magnetic fields and robustness. The movement is designed with a focus on adaptability, featuring a silicon hairspring and a 65-hour power reserve, making it weekend-proof. The watch’s design pays homage to the brand’s heritage with gilt accents on a matte black dial, a nod to the brand’s historic divers’ watches and integrates modern manufacturing techniques for enhanced durability and comfort.
Black Bay
In addition to the 58 GMT, Tudor has introduced several other Black Bay models, including a new monochrome iteration, evolving its design while maintaining the essence and technical excellence that the series is known for. This latest model showcases a sleek, modern aesthetic with an inky black dial and rhodium-plated hour markers and hands, distinguishing it from its predecessors. Since its debut in 2012 and subsequent Manufacture movement upgrade in 2016, the Black Bay has consistently set benchmarks in the industry, now further enhanced with Master Chronometer certification by METAS.
The heart of this new Black Bay is the MT5602-U movement, which promises unparalleled accuracy and anti-magnetic properties. With a 70-hour power reserve, this caliber ensures that the watch remains functional over the weekend, requiring no winding from Friday evening to Monday morning. The watch’s design pays homage to Tudor’s historic diving watches with a 41mm case, a unidirectional rotatable bezel and ergonomic improvements like its redesigned crown for better integration with the case. Offered with either satin-brushed stainless steel or a polished and brushed bracelet, each equipped with the Tudor “T-fit” clasp for rapid length adjustment.
Black Bay 58 18k
Setting a change of pace is the Black Bay 58 18K, crafted from 18 ct yellow gold and featuring an open case back — a first for Tudor’s divers’ watches. This premium version honors the original Black Bay 58’s heritage, dating back to 1958 when Tudor introduced its first divers’ watch waterproof to 200 meters while marking a new pinnacle of luxury with its solid gold composition. This model introduces a matching satin-finished 18 ct yellow gold bracelet, equipped with the same Tudor “T-fit” clasp found on other Black Bay models.
The Black Bay 58 18K distinguishes itself with a matte finish on the gold case and a unique “golden green” tone on the dial and bezel, complemented by matte gold details and 18 ct yellow gold “Snowflake” hands and applied hour markers. Inside, the watch is powered by the Manufacture caliber MT5400, revealing Tudor’s commitment to precision and durability. This movement is visible through the novel open case back, offering a 70-hour power reserve to ensure the watch keeps ticking over the weekend.
Clair de Rose
Last but not least, Tudor has updated its feminine Clair de Rose collection with the introduction of the captivating “Tudor Blue” dials, exclusively encased in stainless steel and powered by mechanical movements. This line is enriched with a fresh infusion of color across three different sizes: 26, 30, and 34 millimeters, in two distinct designs. The Clair de Rose watches embody a timeless elegance, drawing on Tudor’s rich heritage by blending the poetic connotations of moonlight with the historical emblem of the brand, a rose. The introduction of the “Tudor Blue” dial adds a contemporary twist to the classic aesthetics of the line, featuring opaline and now blue dials adorned with delicate relief decorations, available with either Roman numerals or diamonds. Each watch is crowned with a striking winding crown set with a blue spinel cabochon, in line with the collection’s refined and gentle silhouette, available exclusively in a stainless steel finish.
The Clair de Rose collection stands as a testament to Tudor’s longstanding tradition of creating feminine watches, a craft refined since the art-deco period of the early 1930s. Rich in detail, elegance and distinctive marks of its lineage through elements like the precious spinel cabochon-adorned winding crown, this line is a modern homage to Tudor’s historical prowess in intricate jewelry watchmaking. A notable feature of the Clair de Rose is its stainless steel 5-link bracelet, often called the “beads of rice” bracelet, celebrated for its comfort and polished finish. The introduction of the “Tudor Blue” dial continues Tudor’s tradition of incorporating blue into its designs, a color deeply entwined with the brand’s identity since the debut of the blue dial in the Tudor Submariner in 1969.
