At the Valentino Fall/Winter 2024 show during Paris Fashion Week, creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli sang a different song than his previous collections. Clad in all-black, his collection made quite the statement and hard turn from his previous vibrant and eclectic uses of color. For its Fall/Winter 2022 collection, Piccioli took pretty in pink to a whole new level, creating head-to-toe monochromes in the hue, that later became best known as “Valentino Pink.” The fuschia neon pink color was seen across the world and was a fashion and marketing spectacle that led to the designer’s recent menswear collection which used a bright blue as the underlying tone.
With his most recent unveiling in the French fashion capital, PP takes a stance for black being the new pink. He sent out an all-black collection on the Parisian runway, calling it a reflection of the current times. In a preview, Piccioli said, “You have to be aware that you are in the dark to look for the light, and that was my starting point. Black is interesting, because it’s the color of these times and it’s very universal, but very individual.” Taking away color, Piccioli can better explore the masculine-feminine tropes, while focusing on the the dark hue’s powerful symbol of elegance across time.
Staying true to house codes, the collection takes from ’80s and sees Piccioli pair an oversized suit jacket with a sheer chiffon shirt. Sharp shouldered tunic dresses are contrasted with billowing chiffon blouses and ruffles on sheer blouses. The A-line skirt is paired with chunky biker boots while evening gowns remain chic and focused on how the pieces look in movement. Playing with silhouettes becomes the core of the collection, giving a new identity to Valentino. In 60 looks, Valentino steps away from its Barbiecore aesthetic, aiming to go back to the simplicity of black, possibly for better sales.
